I’m dreaming of fresh asparagus

Posted by Dana McMahan on February 15, 2008

With snow piled up on sidewalks across the city, fresh green asparagus feels a million years away. But I can tell you the first dish we’ll make when those slender little stalks shoot up out of a sun-warmed earth – if it ever gets warm again.

Flipping through a Gourmet magazine a few years ago while on some silly diet before a vacation, I was struck by a gorgeous dish. Featuring more rich dairy than I thought I should indulge in at the time, I dog-eared the page for after the trip. And as soon as we returned I handed the magazine to my husband and asked politely (I hope), “Make this please. Now”

He got to work while I watched and anticipated. It’s a deal of work, but the rich crumbly crust, crowned with tender bright asparagus in a bed of tangy gruyere, perfectly finished with nutmeg was well worth the work and the wait. And it is a wait – we’re talking almost three hours start to finish. Only feed this to people you love, folks.

Asparagus and Gruyère Tart (From Gourmet magazine)

Black pepper and sour cream pastry dough
3 lb thick white or green asparagus, trimmed to 6 inches and peeled (it’s even prettier to alternate green and white)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (plus more for sprinkling)
1 cup heavy cream (don't cheat yourself with anything lower fat)
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup finely grated Gruyère

Make crust
Roll out pastry dough on a floured surface into a 15 1/2-inch round. Transfer to pizza pan and pinch to form a 1/2-inch-high, double-thick side. Prick bottom of shell all over with a fork and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Line shell with foil and fill with pie weights or raw rice. Bake in middle of oven about 20 minutes (until sides are firm,). Remove foil and weights carefully and bake shell until golden, about 10 more minutes more, then cool.

Prepare filling while shell cools
Layer asparagus on a steamer rack, sprinkling each layer with kosher salt to taste. Steam, covered, over boiling water until completely tender (DON’T let them get mushy), about 8 minutes for green asparagus or 12 for white, then transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.
Whisk together cream, eggs, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and nutmeg, then season lightly with pepper. Pour custard mixture evenly in tart shell.

Top filling and bake tart
Sprinkle custard with two thirds of the Gruyère, then arrange asparagus, tips out (like the spokes of a wheel). Sprinkle remaining cheese over top.
Bake tart in middle of oven until custard is set, about 20 minutes. Then broil tart 2 to 3 inches from heat until golden, 1 to 2 minutes.

Then take a picture because it will be gone in no time and you’ll need something to remember all the work by.

TAGS: Asparagus, Custard, Gruyere, Nutmeg, Tart
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