In which I learn grits are good

Posted by Dana McMahan on May 11, 2008

I spent last week travelling the Blue Ridge Parkway by motorcycle with my dad. This was not a foodie trip but I managed to squeeze in one great dinner at Bistro Roca & Antlers Bar in Blowing Rock, North Carolina.

We were staying near Blowing Rock and met some friends who live nearby -- they recommended this restaurant. I checked the menu ahead of time, as my dad and I have radically different tastes in food. The selection of interesting starters, pizza and burger options and variety of "bistro specialties" looked like it would satisfy both of us.

The restaurant is settled in a beautiful mountain town and the dark wood and stone exterior and decor fit the region. The four of us sat at an enormous booth (on a weeknight we had plenty of tables to choose from), but the tables with big comfy leather chairs looked really nice too.

I was tempted by several menu items, including the hand cut fries served with gorgonzola cream, the seared scallops and the ahi tuna. But I was in North Carolina and thought I should try something local. When the waiter announced the specials, I jumped on the grouper with grilled asparagus, creamy grits and wild mushroom truffle tapenade. I hadn't had fresh asparagus yet this year and had eyed it at a farmer's market earlier this week. He told me the asparagus was fresh and local in answer to my inquiry, which set off a conversation with our dinner partners about what local means in the mountains. We sat at about 4,000 feet in elevation and my friend explained that asparagus was not yet ready up here, as most produce is about a month behind what it is "down the mountain." "Local depends on your definition," she said -- the asparagus is from about 40 miles away, probably. Considering my last asparagus came from California, I'll take 40 miles!

I chose a white wine from San Gimignano from their reasonably priced list of wines by the glass (many are available for $6). We commented on how much we liked the fact that the waiter quoted the price for the specials. I despise having to ask the price. My grouper dish was $24 and came with a salad. They serve a large rectangular plate with a house salad and Caesar salad for the table. (Note if you don't eat meat: the house salad has bacon.)

I was a little apprehensive about grits -- despite growing up in Kentucky, I've never tried this traditionally southern food. The waiter reassured me though, that if I didn't like them they'd bring me something else. But I was in for a delicious surprise. The grits were creamy, buttery and absolutely tasty! The fish, lightly fried, sat atop the delicate asparagus spears, and it all rested on a pool of grits drizzled with a thick, rich balsamic vinegar. The earthy -- and definitely truffle-flavored -- tapenade crowned it all. I mopped up every last bite of the grits and quizzed the waiter about how to make them. I'm afraid he wasn't much help -- grits, water, cream and butter, was his response. I'll have to experiment.

I would definitely return to Bistro Rocca if I have the happy occasion to be back in this beautiful mountain town again. And if you go, don't miss the grits.

TAGS: Asparagus, Grits, Grouper, Local, Travel
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