Perfect hole in the wall Paris restaurant: Le Felteu

Posted by Dana McMahan on March 22, 2008

On our first night in Paris last week, my friend Tracy and I had two requirements for dinner out. In our jet-lagged and exhausted state it must be within walking distance of our Marais apartment. And with the state of the U.S. dollar, it must be reasonably priced. Le Felteu, listed in my Pauline Frommer guidebook, looked to fit the bill.

I called to reserve (pretty pleased with myself for managing the transaction entirely in French), and umbrellas in hand, we set out at 8 for our 8:15 reservation. On a quiet little side street, the restaurant presented an unassuming front. We stepped in out of the chilly March rain and into the warm fragrant glow of the bar. I announced our name and reservation for the restaurant to the proprietor and he led us through to the restaurant, a long narrow room lined with banquette seating on either side. Only one table held diners -- not a good sign, I thought. (I soon discovered I was wrong, we were just dining early!) We were seated next to them, exchanged smiles and they promptly, in French, offered to share their bottle of mineral water. Very kind of them, but I declined -- I'm embarrassed to say I've never acquired a taste for the water with gas in Europe.

The waiter, a somewhat laconic older man who reminded my friend of Mel (from Mel's Diner in Alice), in time brought a large blackboard to our table. Today's menu was scrawled in French in white chalk. Though I was packing my Marling Menu Master, my French has improved enough that I translated most of it aloud for my friend. I had two non-meat options, a marinated salmon or a warm goat cheese salad. Though salad isn't the first thing I long for when I dream of French food, I didn't fancy salmon so I consulted with monsieur Mel to be sure it was dinner-sized, and ordered the Salade au Chèvre Chaud (€7.80). Tracy chose the house specialty, a beef terrine (€7.80), with an onion soup (€7.50) to start. From the wines listed on a blackboard on the back wall that we could just see by squinting, we picked a pichet (half liter) of Sauvignon Blanc (€11) to drink.

As we waited for our food the restaurant began to fill. We watched the blackboard make its way around the room as the sound level -- lots of laughter and French conversation -- grew. The room felt like someone's French grandmother's country kitchen, with hanging plates decorating the fading yellow-papered walls.

Mel brought our plates and we dove in. My salad was perfect. A heaping plate of fresh crisp greens, lightly dressed with a vinaigrette was topped with a few carrot curls and a tomato slice. The real star of the show though, ringed the salad -- warm crumbly goat cheese, bubbly and divine, topped crunchy slices of toasted baguette. It was just what I wanted (though I hadn't known when I ordered it) after my travels and first day in the city.

Tracy gamely ate some of her terrine -- she hadn't known what it was when she ordered it, and found the gelatinous aspect a little offputting. She loved the onion soup though, served in a large white lions-head adorned bowl with cheese and croutons on the side.

We dawdled over our dinner, sipping wine, munching David Lebovitz-approved baguettes and observing the room, watching Mel take care of everyone and the chef dashing out of the kitchen into the bar from time to time. We chatted just a little with the couple seated next to us. I liked that the woman ate her entire dish, none of this pretending to be a dainty eater or on a diet nonsense. And I loved that we were the only English speakers (and tourists) in the place. I ordered a coffee to finish, though tempted by the desserts on yet another blackboard, and could have stayed all night, had I not been sleepy enough by now to curl up and sleep on the banquette.

This little gem is definitely worth a visit. It felt like *real* Paris, with delicious hearty food happily enjoyed by a room full of locals. Just be sure to take cash -- they don't accept plastic -- and a menu translator if you don't speak French because no English was spoken.

Restaurant Le Felteu
15, rue Pecquay, 4th
Tel: 01 42 72 14 51
Mètro: Rambuteau

Bon appetit!

TAGS: Chevre, Paris, Restaurant
POST TOOLS:         

Recent Entries:
· Daikon Salad with Ume Boshi Dressing
· Fig and Lamb Kebabs with Tzatziki
· Set it and forget it: Crockpot Jerk Chicken

[ READER COMMENTS ]

1. 1

   Laura said:

   I've walked by this place, and it's always so busy! We've been meaning to try it, but now we definitely will. Thanks!

   Posted at 04:58 AM, on March 24 2008

1. 2

   Dana McMahan said:

   That's great! I made reservations at 6 that same day for 8:15 so it's easy to book ahead. Enjoy!

   Posted at 06:49 AM, on March 24 2008

1. 3

   parispatois said:

   the "laconic" old man that served you was none other than jerry the owner of le felteu

   Posted at 12:49 PM, on September 27 2008

Add your comments...

We kindly ask that you keep your comments relevant to this blog entry. Abusive or inappropriate comments or comments that are specifically promotional in nature may be removed.

Your Name: (required)

Your Email Address: (required, will be kept private)

Your Website's URL: (optional)

Would you like us to remember your info for next time?
YesNo

Your Comments: