Silver Palate Cookbook 25th Anniversary Edition

Posted by Margalit

This year for my birthday I got the Silver Palate Cookbook 25th Anniversary Edition from a cooking buddy of mine. She has seen and used my original edition of this cookbook, which is probably at least 20 years old, ripped, stained, and held together by rubber bands. It's been a well used cookbook despite it's very obvious flaws.

I had high hopes that the 25th anniversay edition would fix some of the flaws, which I find disconcerting in such a popular cookbook. I was disappointed. Except for a lot of new, fancy color photos, the content is virtually the same as it was 25 years ago. This hardcover edition has lovely illustrations and gorgeous photos, but the recipes continue to assume that the user is a knowledgable cook that understands abbreviated recipes. I don't like that. I find it tends to turn off the novice cook, even though many of the recipes are easy to follow. Because there is so much information lacking, a cook unfamiliar with tools and ingredients would have trouble following a recipe.

For example, the recipe for Gravlox says that you should have 1 piece (3lbs) fresh salmon, center cut fom the fish, halved, lengthwise and thoroughly boned. Now, a novice cook is not going to understand that what you actually want is two whole body filets, tail pieces removed so that the same thickness of fish remains throughout the piece. A picture could have shown what the fish should look like, but alas, no picture is included. I can see some poor person going to their fish monger and asking for a whole salmon and then spending precious time filetting a fish.

Another thing that bothers me about this book is the feeling that much of the food is passe. Because the recipes weren't updated, what seemed exciting and unusual 25 years ago can be considered boring fare these days. Chicken Marbella 25 years ago was groundbreaking, but now it's just another chicken dish. The recipe remains excellent, but there could have been new and more up to date recipes included. The book assumes that the user is holding cocktail parties and serving hor de ourves. But honestly, cocktail parties? With home made pate? And mini quiches? It's been done to death.

I used to like this book a lot, and used it often. I still like it and use it often. But the recipes are for food that is often heavy and fattening. I think American tastes have moved towards lighter fare as a rule, and much of the content of this book seems to be items that we no longer consider healthy food choices.

However, there are excellent short blurbs of information throughout the book that are extremely valuable for the novice cook. One such list, of different sausages, their ingredients and their origins has been of great help to me in planning a cassoulet.

I don't mean to pan this book in it's entirety. I honestly can't imagine my kitchen without it. I really do rely heavily on this book for ideas and for dinner party recipes. The ginger carrots have been a holiday staple in our house for years. The section on sauces has taught me to make hollandaise, bearnaise, and bechamel sauces. The bread pudding is to die for and a big favorite in the winter.The chocolate fudge sauce over premium homemade ice cream is so good it could bring tears to your eyes. There are wonderful recipes in this book, recipes that have become familiar friends over the years.

I just wish there were some new friends introduced in this anniversary edition.

If you have the original book in decent condition, I would defer purchasing this edition. If you're new to the book, it's a 'must have' for a burgeoning cookbook collection, and can get you through many dinner parties with rave reviews. I don't think any serious cook should be without this book in one form or the other.

TAGS: Cookbook, Review, Silver Palate Cookbook
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